Today started early as when we got up at 6:30 we were
already in Glacier Alley. The sky is fairly clear, but the wind is whipping up
the fjord. The way the sun hits the glaciers is really pretty. It is hard to
believe that the Andes we are seeing here are just a continuation of the Rocky Mountains.
And down here they will disappear into the sea to rise again in Antarctica.
They had told us we would be starting to see glaciers in
Glacier Alley about 8 AM, but it really was much earlier. Some of these
glaciers are named and some are unnamed.
The first named glacier that we passed was Espana. This area
is known as Tierra del Fuego. The Beagle Canal cuts through this area.
The next glacier we saw was an example of a hanging glacier
with an orphan glacier by it.
The MS Beagle (British) charted these water over two
missions. The first time Stokes was the captain and he committed suicide, as
the conditions down here are almost intolerable. The second mission, the one
more known as Darwin was aboard, was captained by Fitzroy. One of the stories
they told us was about the time some of the men left the ship in a small
whaling vessel and went ashore to explore. The natives stole their boat, and
just as the captain was going to send someone to search for them, they paddled
us in something that looked like a basket, that they had put together. So, they
named the island Basket Island.
The next glacier was Romanche. This glacier has a beautiful
cascading waterfall. It was the most dramatic of the glaciers. The waters
change color closer to the glacier as the sediment from the glacier turns the
water more green.
The next glacier was called Alemania. Right near here was a
beach where the natives would spend the night. They did not build structures,
but slept on the beach. And, these natives did not where clothes.
All the glaciers today are on the port side, and sure
enough, our cabin is on the port side, so we have had a lot of company. Then
last major glacier is Italia. This glacier has horns. That is where the ice
splits in half and goes down two sides.
The final glacier is Hollanda. A couple of nights ago
everyone was given a Chilean Fjords Cruise Chart, so we are able to follow
along as they give us commentary. You can also plot your position when the
captain gives it.
In the middle of the canal is an island I. del Diablo (Devil’s
Island). It was called that because it sits in the middle of the channel, and
made it very hard for ships to avoid it. They said the Devil put the island
there. Today with the navigation aids they have it is not an issue.
Tomorrow we are going to be docking in Ushuaia, but this
morning we passed by the city. It is considered the southernmost cite in the
world.
As we come to the end of the Beagle Canal there is an island
called I. Gabia, which is a little different than the other islands that we
have seen. It appears to be all rock, with no vegetation. We then turn south
through Paso Goree and Paso del Mar on our way to Cape Horn. We expected Cape
Horn to be on the starboard side, so all went to someone on the starboard,
where got some good pictures getting there; however, the captain turned the
ship around and went around the other way so we moved the party back to our
cabin. Nice that one of our group is on the same deck on the other side. We
started out journey around the Cape about 4:30.
On top of Cape Horn there is a lighthouse and the house
where the keeper and his family live. It is a Chilean family that stay there
about 11 months. They are resupplied every three months by boat. Also on top of
Cape Horn is a statue with an Albatross, which is memory of all that have died
going around the Horn.
Here are a couple of picture from the balcony.
Our ship put a lifeboat into the water with two from the
ship in survival gear and sent it off those in the keepers house. I am sure
that is why we took the back way around Cape Horn to give them a chance to get
over and back at the same time we came around from the Horn. So, finally, after
a long sail around the back of Cape Horn, we were at the Cape. It was a fantastic
experience and being able to share it with new friends, cheese and cracker,
Pringles and wine and beer, was an added benefit.
